An unidentified lady, formerly called called Elizabeth I

Oval miniature in watercolour on vellum, in a gilt surround set in an oval black wooden mount, possibly ebony, with incised foliate and floral decoration. The sitter is either a late 16th or early 17th-century lady of high social status, probably no younger than about 30. Allowing for some oxidation her short curled hair appears to be a light red (possibly coloured) and her eyes hazel. She is shown bust-length turned slightly to her left but looking out to the viewer with a slight smile, and she has a somewhat aquiline nose. She wears an elaborately embroidered gown predominantly in black and silver in a floral pattern, and an elaborate starched lace ruff and cap, with jewels in her cap and curled hair, and a deep necklace. Allowing for some loss of colour many of the stones appear to be jet, with rubies, but may be diamonds represented by silver leaf now oxidized. The shoulders of the gown extend beyond the image and the bodice bears the device of a standing hind facing left. On the reverse, an old inscription reads 'Q Elizabeth N Hilayard Strawberry Hill CSB' and there are two numbers, each on a paper label; 56 and 2385.

This miniature - then identified as Elizabeth I by Hilliard - is one of a group from the Duke of Buccleuch's collection, purchased for the Museum by Sir James Caird in 1940-41. The frame is clearly a pair with that of a miniature of Howard of Effingham acquired from the same source (as by Hilliard, but possibly Lockey, MNT0136) which until at least 1917 was thought to be of Lord Hunsdon. The frames' date is not yet known, though they are untypical of miniatures reframed while in the Buccleuch collection, but if it reflects a longer pairing this may include the possibility that both were in Horace Walpole's possession.

Isaac Oliver (c. 1565-1617), of Huguenot birth, was pupil and subsequent competitor of Nicholas Hilliard, and after him probably the second best known 'limner' of miniatures of the late 16th and early 17th century, though in a somewhat different style.

Object Details

ID: MNT0119
Collection: Fine art
Type: Miniature
Display location: Not on display
Creator: Oliver, Isaac; Hilliard, N.
Date made: late 16th century; Early 17th century
Credit: National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London, Caird Collection
Measurements: Overall: 51 x 43 mm