Lieutenant’s double-breasted undress coat of blue wool face cloth, worn by Lieutenant Horatio James (died 1850), later Commander. The double row of eight gilt brass buttons feature a rope-twist rim around a fouled anchor surmounted by a crown on a lined ground. The collar is a very early shawl or roll collar and the underside has been heavily stitched using running stitch, to both shape and reinforce it. On the front of the coat, the top four buttonholes are only finished on one side, indicating that the coat was meant to be worn with the top unbuttoned, as a roll collar.

The top of the sleeve, unlike the uniforms of the 1820s, is not gathered but straight, and the coat has slightly sloping shoulders. At the very top of the shoulders, by the collar, are eyelet holes for the right epaulette, and at the bottom of each shoulder is a narrow strip of gold lace. The sleeves terminate in round cuffs with small slits on the sides. On each cuff are three gilt brass buttons, arranged horizontally, above faux blue-twist buttonholes. At the wrist are two small gilt brass buttons and working buttonholes.

Inside the yoke, sewn over the tweed is a maker’s label of printed cotton. It features a large oval, with a central reserve cartouche and a deep guilloche border.